This is where ground cover is useful.Īnother justification for maintaining the pruning is that as the water drops onto the earth, it subsequently splashes up on the leaves. Mother Nature’s rain is something we cannot control, so we must make the best of it.

We must therefore be concerned about the rain. My presumption is that you won’t be watering your tomato plants from the top anymore. The blight’s enemy is rain or any other type of top-down watering. We must cover it with a substantial material that can endure copious amounts of rain. Wherever your tomatoes are in your garden bed, we need to cover every square inch of that area. I’m using this stuff to first cover the entire ground in my garden beds, and then I’m using straw bale to add a top layer of protection. However, I have weed fabric before I even lay that on the ground. With the ground cover, this will be a massive one that will be really effective. Covering soilĬovering the ground below the tomatoes. I don’t see any evidence of the baking soda scorching the leaves in any way. I know I added a lot, but this really does work and it won’t hurt your plants. Now I’m adding at least 2-3 teaspoons of baking soda. Always keep in mind that the key is to modify the fungus’s alkalinity or ph. Peroxide can also be used on plants, according to what I’ve heard, but only after being diluted. Therefore, it’s kind of a case of picking your battles if you want something much lighter than the fungicide, try baking soda. The fact that it isn’t as potent as the fungicide is the only drawback. As a result, you’ll see that baking soda performs significantly better than copper fungicide. I did see that the fungicide burns the plants less than the following day does. When it comes to baking soda, I use something like a four-to-one ratio. I do use a tiny bit more baking soda than water.

You will simply be combining baking soda and water when utilizing the baking soda spray. The plants will actually burn if they receive a lot of sunlight while having fungicides on their leaves.īaking soda is the alternate choice. Use it when there is less sunlight because of clouds. Your fungicide was considerably too strong if the leaves on your tomato plants seemed somewhat more brown, toasted up, and jacked up than they did the day before. At the bottom of that, you don’t want anything. As a result, the most pruning you can do at the plant’s root.Īs the tomato plant grows, it will produce leaves on the top, but we want to keep the leaves off the base. The second reason you’d need to prune your plants is to widen the gap between the soil and the leaves.īecause the fungal disease resides in the soil, you’ll want to make sure there’s plenty of space between the leaves and the dirt.One of them is that we want to promote a lot of airflow and circulation, which will help with the humidity issue.The reason we want to prune our plants is that it serves a dual purpose. This leads me to the first tip, which is to prune your plants. Your plant will no longer be viable, and you will need to remove it entirely. If you don’t take care of the early-stage blight, it will eventually progress to late-stage blight, which will result in mortality. Early-stage blight is a moment when we really need to strike it hard because if you let it go too long without doing anything about it, it will progress to end-stage blight, which is death.

Blight on tomatoes treatment organic